Asher sat on the beach with my Dad as I got pounded by waves today. Finn slept the whole time in the car with my Mom. I took my first surf lesson. The board was extremely long, soft on the top, three fins, perfect for learning to ride a wave. On the sand I learned to observe the ocean, the life guard zone, natural and man made hazards. I practiced popping up on the board. Ready and nervous, excited and willing to do what it took to try hard for the next. Hour.
Pop up. Oh. Forgot to put my right foot heal down. Can’t. Stand up. Balance. Still squatting all the way in. Okay. Ready for flat foot. Nope. Not it. Splash.
Pop up. Back heavy. Splash.
Pop up. Stay soft in the knees. Almost. Splash.
Pop up. Ride the wave all the way in, the beginner board can take it. Glide. Feet like a yogi mountain pose. SMILE. Dad did you see that? YES!
Pop up. Splash.
Pop up. Feet not in the red zone. Splash
Paddle paddle paddle. Miss.
Paddle paddle paddle. Sunk board.
Paddle paddle paddle. Ok. Not that one. Paddle paddle paddle. This one?
The only way to get better at surfing. Keep surfing.
